Saturday, October 19, 2013

অধরা দশমী



নবমীর সাতসকালে হাওয়ায় পুজো পুজো গন্ধ, দূর থেকে ভেসে আসা ঢাকের মৃদু শব্দ, সবই ছিল। ছিল না শুধু রঙীন কাপড়ে-আলোতে মোড়া ফটক। বদলে, বিরাট কাঠের দরজার দু’পাশে রাখা মঙ্গলঘট। ঠিকানাটা মিলছে যখন, ঢুকে পড়লাম। সদর দরজা দিয়ে ঢুকেই একটু এগিয়ে থমকে যেতে হ’ল অপ্রত্যাশিত জানলার সামনে। গরাদের ফাঁক দিয়েই প্রথম দর্শন দিলেন পটলডাঙ্গার বসুমল্লিকবাড়ীর একচালা দুর্গাঠাকুর। নিকন-ক্যানন যার যা ছিল... খচাৎ উঠল ছবি। আবার খচাৎ... ছবি তোলার ছবি।
গলি পেরিয়ে, উঠোন পেরিয়ে পৌঁছে গেলাম ঠাকুরদালানে। লোক বলতে শান্ত হাতে পুজোর প্রস্তুতিতে মগ্ন পুরোহিত, লাল শাড়ী পরা ষাটোর্ধ্বা এক মহিলা, শ্বেতবসনা অশীতিপর এক বৃদ্ধা, আর আমরা তিনজন। লাল শাড়ী পরে কুমারীপুজোর কুমারী সাজতে বসেছে। ডিজিটাল যুগের কুমারীর সাজগোজের থালায় ফেসপাওডার, টিপ, চন্দন, আলতার পর সবশেষে আইলাইনার। আই মেক-আপ এক্সপার্ট হিসেবে তাই মোবাইলে ডাক পড়ল পরের প্রজন্মের। তেরো-চোদ্দ বছরের একটি মেয়ে এসে নিপুণ হাতে বুলিয়ে দিল শেষ প্রলেপ। এদিকে প্রসাধনের বিভিন্ন তুলির সুড়সুড়িতে মাঝেমধ্যেই হেসে ওঠে কুমারী। ফটাফট উঠতে থাকে তার ফোক্‌লা ক্যানডিড্‌ শ্বেতবসনার বনেদী আতিথ্যের আশকারায়। আটপৌরে করে সাদা থান পরা বৃদ্ধার হাতে চওড়া কালো কাপড়ের ব্যান্ডের ঘড়ি, কাঁধছাড়ানো সুবিন্যস্ত ঘন সাদা চুল। সজাগ, সপ্রতিভ, এমন কি স্টাইলিশ। পোর্ট্রেট তুলতে চাওয়াটাও নিতান্তই বেয়াদবি হয়ে যাবে ব’লে শুধু মুগ্ধচোখে দেখে গেলাম। নিজের গদগদ ভাবটা প্রকাশ করব ভেবেও সামলে নিলাম। বলা যায় না, যদি...? তাঁর হাতের ঘড়িটাই যে বাড়ীর পুজোকে বেঁধে রেখেছে নির্ঘন্টের সঙ্গে, তা খুব পরিষ্কার। উঠোনে বসা কিশোর ঢাকী অবাক চোখে দেখে যায় শহুরে দাদা-দিদিদের কান্ডকারখানা। কি এত ধরে রাখতে চাইছে এরা ক্যামেরায়? কি খুঁজে চলেছে খালি খালি? কি পালিয়ে যাবে ছবি না তুললে?
কাছাকাছি ঘোষালবাড়ীতে বা কলুটোলা স্ট্রীটে মতিলাল শীলের বাড়ীতেও মোটামুটি এক দৃশ্য। সক্কাল সক্কাল কূলধর্মরক্ষার্থে হাজির বাড়ীর ক’জন মহিলা, পুরোহিত, আর ঢাকী। অঞ্জলির ফুলের টানাটানি নেই, চটি হারাবার ভয় নেই, মাইক নেই।
কাঁসর বেজে ওঠে, ঢাকে কাঠি পড়ে। শুরু হয় কুমারীপুজো। কাঁসর থামলেই পুরোহিতের মন্ত্রোচ্চারণের শব্দ আর নেপথ্যে উঠোনে ঘুরপাক খাওয়া পায়রার বকমবকম, আর দোতলা থেকে লম্বা করে শুকোতে দেওয়া শাড়ীর লটরপটর

ঠাকুরদেখা-মাঝরাতের সন্ধিপুজো-রিহার্সাল-হইহই... হুড়মুড়িয়ে ক’দিনের জমা ক্লান্তি ঘুম হয়ে দেখা দেয় দশমীর দুপুরে। যতক্ষণে অতিপরিচিত কন্ঠস্বরে বিসর্জনের আয়োজনের খবর মাইকের কল্যাণে ভেসে আসে কানে, খুব দেরী হয়ে গেছে। এবার আর হ’ল না। স্কার্ট-টপেই নেমে যাই। কখনও শাঁখ বাজাই, কখনও তুলি ছবি। ভাবছি বরণের ছবি তোলা ফস্কালেও অন্ততঃ লালমুখো হওয়া থেকে বাঁচা গেল। এমন সময় এগিয়ে আসে একটা লাল হাত, তারপর আরেকটা। আরো একটা... চোখ বন্ধ হয়ে যায়। হঠাৎ মনে পড়ে যায় বসুমল্লিকবাড়ীর দুর্গার মুখ। কে এসেছে এখন তার বিদায়বেলায়? বাড়ির ক’জনেই হয়ত শান্ত বিদায় জানাচ্ছে তাঁকে। হয়ত বনেদী বাড়ীর সিঁদুরখেলার ছবি তুলতে চলে এসেছেন ফটোগ্রাফাররা। অদেখা ছবি উঠতে থাকে মাথার মধ্যে। হয়ত এসব মুহূর্তের রহস্য আর রহস্য থাকতে দেবে না ফেসবুক। কে জানে। ভাল লাগে না। মানসক্যামেরায় কি ধরে রাখতে চাইছি আমি? কি পালিয়ে যাবে ওই ছবিটা বদলে গেলে? সত্যি ছবি কোনটা? কে জানে। ক’দিন বাদে আমিও তো যাব বাড়ীর থেকে বাড়ী।

TEXT © DURBA BASU

Tuesday, July 23, 2013

From the Hudson to the Mississippi

Here is the first page of my article on our blues road trip, published in Jara Parijayee's June-July 2013 issue, now on the stands.


Text and images © DURBA BASU

Wednesday, May 15, 2013

Heaven’s Edge: The Photography of Sebastião Salgado















In the Upper Xingu region of Brazil’s Mato Grosso state, a group of Waura Indians fish in the Puilanga Lake near their village. The Upper Xingu Basin is home to an ethnically-diverse population, with the 2,500 inhabitants of 13 villages speaking languages with distinct Carib, Tupi and Arawak roots. While they occupy different territories and preserve their own cultural identities, they co-exist in peace. Brazil. July, August and September 2005.

©Sebastiao SALGADO / Amazonas Images / NB Pictures

________________________________________________________


 "... [T]he deepest quality of a work of art
 will always be the quality of the mind 
of the producer."
                                      - Henry James



          I have been preoccupied for some time now with the much-awaited publication of the Brazilian photographer Sebastião Salgado’s mammoth project entitled Genesis. I first learnt about Sebastião Salgado through Parvati Nair’s work, although at the time I had no access to his pictures. It was not until after I began to actively pursue my interest in photography and started looking at the work of classic and contemporary photographers that I delved into Salgado's works, and like countless viewers, found myself completely enthralled. Like the profoundest works of art, Salgado’s photographs are awe-inspiring and humbling to say the least. It is impossible to be sensitive and not to respond to them in some way, and that is why perhaps, his work has provoked extremes of reaction. While it has moved some to tears, it has angered others so much so that Salgado has faced tremendous opposition to exhibiting or publishing his works in places.
          I am trying to catch what I can of Genesis, from wherever I can, on the internet. The book has been released in Europe on May 1, but will not be available in the US until mid-June. I am never able to view more than a few of Salgado’s pictures at a time. I have to stop, and let it all seep in. Every time I view or think of them, I am confronted with the truth of my utter insignificance before the vast problems humankind has created for itself. “C’est émotionelle,” (“It’s emotional”) says Salgado, describing the appeal of his work in an interview in one of the videos on the Amazonas Images site. True, though it could perhaps be said of his work what T.S. Eliot said of the metaphysical poets—that their kind of poetry was one in which thought became feeling and feeling became thought. This is why photographers find unparalleled aesthetic finesse in Salgado’s work, and even if you are not interested in photographic technique, you still know you are beholding something very, very special. It is a very happy marriage of content and form, so that form never comes across as obtrusive.
          Introducing Genesis recently in Longbeach, California, Salgado narrated how he came to photograph as he does, and in due course recounted what a deeply physical toll his engagement with photography had taken on him. In a video of the event (which you can watch by clicking here) he talks of a time when he would not ejaculate but emit blood when he made love with his wife. He was told by his doctor that he was clinically alright, but he had witnessed way too much death around him in Rwanda, so that he was dying inside, and the only medicine was to stop his work for some time. And stop he did, and that was how Genesis came into being. He went back to Brazil, and his family gave him and his wife the land they owned in the countryside, which was forested once upon a time. The Salgados wanted to renew the land as it once was, covered by a rainforest, and began an environmental project, a global expression of which is embodied by Genesis. In course of time Salgado envisioned another multi-year-long project that would comprise photographs of areas of the earth as yet untouched by modernization, of peoples who have had no contact outside their immediate communities or tribes, and still keep to their traditional ways of life, and patterns of economic organization.  I became part of the rapt North American audience that I watched on video, listening to Salgado telling his story in his English inflected by his Brazilian Portuguêse, and what came through was the sheer energy and lifelong commitment of the man to register felt reality in all its intensity in the images he made. It is this deep existential charge that animates every single picture of Salgado’s, so that even before you know his story, you sense there is an exceptional story. From what I have seen of Genesis so far, the closest literary equivalent I can think of is the Sri Lankan novelist Romesh Gunesekara’s ineffably beautiful and indescribably sad novel Heaven’s Edge.
          The reception and circulation of Salgado’s work is informed by a paradox, which interests me particularly. The subjects of his representation do not get to see the final body of work in which they are represented, although Salgado stays with them for days and interacts very closely during the time he photographs. As he says himself, by the time he photographs them, he knows their story, and they know his, and sometimes the subjects even determine how they want to be photographed. Nevertheless, they are untouched by modernization in the same way as those viewers of Salgado who have access to his works in published form. In this sense his work is not unlike the work of anthropologists, and particularly anyone working with a postcolonial agenda, although Salgado has himself resisted the label ‘anthropologist’.  His work also raises some deep questions about the very nature of art. If the best art must be that which evokes  the deepest sadness in its audience, is it not then at odds with such suffering? Is the art not in some sense protesting the loss it depicts, and the sense of loss that it evokes in its audience? Salgado, though, talks of Genesis as a project of hope, as a way of showing that there are still parts of the earth that are as pristine as they were when the world began. He is said to be fond of stating the statistic that 45% of the earth is in such an uncorrupted state. But this statistic looks hopeful only because of one recognizes the real threat of environmental pollution, the irrevocability of modernization, and the rapacious greed fostered by capitalist consumerism.  Salgado’s photographs are a clarion call to action, and yet when you think of it, in a perfect world, where his vision would be realized, there would be no occasion for such pictures. There are no ready answers to any of the questions these pictures ask of us. Who must this first person plural I have just used mean, and by implication, who are the others? It is a war between the brooding sense of the fact that our planet is slowly dying, and a contrary, desperate will to make it all turn out otherwise that we are left with.

Text © DURBA BASU


How many roads...?



Two pieces of news preoccupy me today, and I find my thoughts returning to them no matter what I am doing. The news of Angelina Jolie’s elective double mastectomy is all over the place. As a woman and as a human being, I admire her decision to opt for surgery, and applaud her public advocacy of her choice by writing about it the New York Times. Although, ever since I heard the news I could not stop marvelling how extraordinarily privileged a woman needs to be to exercise this choice. Even if a woman can tide over social perceptions of femininity obsessed with body parts, this is both a financially and racially privileged choice to make at this moment. Such diagnosis is not accessible for even the vast majority of women who have the luxury of health insurance, in any country in the world. I have been keenly following the recent debate in India about the Novartis patent on Glivec, and am more than glad about the eventual outcome. The Indian Supreme Court’s ruling should go a long way in keeping cancer medications affordable in India, which would also benefit people from neighbouring countries who go there for cancer treatment. The importance of the affordability of medicines anywhere in the world cannot be overstated. Many African countries and charities depend on cheaper versions of drugs made in India to combat diseases including AIDS.

In the afternoon, I am somewhat relieved to find that Joseph Stiglitz has voiced his concern about how not just the tests for the BRCA1 and BRCA2 genes but the isolated DNA sequences are owned by a corporation, which means that not only does the corporation want to exercise monopoly on diagnosis, but it also wants to own all related research, and at a time when the implications of genetic mutation for Asian American, Latino and African-American women is not known. The report I have seen is very obviously written from an American perspective. So I do not know if 'Asian' is covered by 'Asian American'. How about Australasians, Polynesians, indigenous peoples who have had no human contact outside their community or tribe? Anyway, what a ridiculous idea, that a corporation might own the DNA sequences, things that occur naturally! Hopefully the war against proprietorship has started, but then there’s a long way to go. How many roads…?

Now for the other thing that has preoccupied me. I will write about it in the next post.

Sunday, May 5, 2013

Variorum Tagore

For the first time, a variorum Rabindranath Tagore is available online: Bichitra